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The jacket with enamel globe buttons (right) represented a united world at a time of struggle. The tour featured an ‘American Designed Wardrobe’ that selected US manufacturers may reproduce. Eyes, lips and noses float on the extensive sleeves, while gold and tasselled breasts protruding from the bodice are accentuated by swirling baroque coils. Usually easy in silhouette but distinctive of their embellishment, these jackets supplied a canvas on which to display beautiful haute couture abilities. Dazzling and daring, Elsa Schiaparelli’s jackets accomplished her striking evening suits, combining lavish embroidery, sumptuous textiles and strange fastenings.
These are interspersed with different recognisable motifs, including eyes, lips and a measuring tape. His lyrical style animated the figure‑hugging ‘cigarette’ silhouette of these night attire from Schiaparelli’s Winter 1939 assortment. Cocteau drew an illustration of this search for Harper’s Bazaar (shown nearby) in which the figure’s profile mirrors that proven on the jacket, its hand clutching a shawl. Cocteau’s whimsical, linear drawing style complemented Schiaparelli’s clean tailoring. Artist, playwright and filmmaker Jean Cocteau appreciated the theatricality of Schiaparelli’s dramatic capes and coats. He bought neckties that includes small zebras for himself whereas every thing else was for pals, including the Torn costume and the Skeleton gown (displayed nearby) for Ford.
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- Schiaparelli’s eveningwear gave photographers license to create adventurous style images, visually matching the artistic language of her garments.
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